Haircut Numbers and Clipper Guard Sizes

A haircut number is the clipper guard your barber uses, and the higher the number, the longer the hair. A 1 leaves 1/8 inch (3 mm), a 2 leaves 1/4 inch (6 mm), a 3 leaves 3/8 inch (10 mm) and a 4 leaves 1/2 inch (13 mm), up to an 8 at 1 inch (25 mm).

Haircut numbers chart

• 0, no guard: under 1/16 inch (under 1.6 mm), depending on the clipper. As short as a clipper goes; used at the bottom of fades.

• 1/2 guard: 1/16 inch, 1.6 mm. A shadow of hair; used low in fades.

• 1: 1/8 inch, 3.2 mm. A very short buzz cut; the scalp shows.

• 1 1/2: 3/16 inch, 4.8 mm. Between a 1 and a 2; common in fades.

• 2: 1/4 inch, 6.4 mm. The classic buzz cut.

• 3: 3/8 inch, 9.5 mm. A longer buzz cut, or the sides of a crew cut.

• 4: 1/2 inch, 12.7 mm. Covers the scalp; crew cut and brush cut length.

• 5: 5/8 inch, 15.9 mm. Enough length to style with a little product.

• 6: 3/4 inch, 19.1 mm. A short top you can push up or part.

• 7: 7/8 inch, 22.2 mm. A fuller short top; good on thick hair.

• 8: 1 inch, 25.4 mm. The longest standard guard. Past this, barbers cut with scissors.

These are the standard guard sizes used by Wahl and most clipper makers. Some brands differ by a millimetre or so, and opening the clipper's lever leaves about 1/16 inch more.

What each number looks like

From a 0 to a 2 the scalp shows through, more on fine or light hair. From a 3 up the hair covers the scalp, and from a 5 up there's enough length to style. The lower the number, the faster it grows out: a 1 looks like a 2 within about a week.

How to pick your number

• Lowest upkeep, 0 to 2: short, clean and quick in the morning. Great for an active week; it needs a touch-up every two to three weeks to stay sharp.

• Short but softer, 3 to 5: covers the scalp, holds a little shape and grows out gently. A good everyday length for work.

• Room to style, 6 to 8: enough length on top for a pompadour, a side part or a textured look, with a little product.

Common number combinations

• "A 2 all over": the classic buzz cut.

• "A 1 on the sides, a 3 on top": a short, tidy cut with a little more on top.

• "A 3 on the sides tapered to a 1, an inch on top": a classic crew cut.

• "Skin to a 2 on the sides, a 4 on top": a skin fade with a short top.

• "A 4 on the sides, scissors on top": a side part or Ivy League.

Is a 3 or a 4 longer?

A 4. Each number up adds 1/8 inch, about 3 mm.

Should I get a 2 or a 3?

A 2 shows a little more scalp; a 3 looks fuller and grows out more gently. If your hair is fine, or it's your first buzz cut, start with a 3: you can always go shorter.

Half numbers: 1/2, 1 1/2 and 2 1/2

Half sizes sit between the whole numbers. Barbers use them, or the clipper's lever, to blend a fade smoothly: the lever closed cuts at the guard's length, open it leaves about 1/16 inch more.

How numbers work in a fade

A fade climbs through the numbers from the bottom up. A skin fade starts at the skin or a 0 at the hairline, then goes through a 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, 2 and 3 as it rises into the length on top. Where it starts decides the name:

• Low fade or taper: the short numbers stay just above the ears and at the neckline.

• Mid fade or taper: they start around the temples.

• High fade or taper: they run up toward the top of the head.

A taper uses the short numbers only at the sideburns and the neckline; a fade carries them all the way around.

Which number for which haircut

• Buzz cut: one number all over, usually a 1 to a 4.

• Crew cut: a 2 to a 4 on the sides, about an inch on top. See crew cut variations.

• Skin fade: skin or a 0 at the bottom, up through a 3.

• Taper: a 0 or 1 at the neckline and sideburns only, longer above.

• Ivy League or side part: a 3 or 4 on the sides, the top cut with scissors.

What to tell your barber

Say the number for the sides, whether you want them faded and down to what, and the length on top in inches. For example: "A 2 on the sides faded down to a 0, an inch on top." For one length all over: "A 3 all over." If you're unsure, ask for one number longer than you think. It's easy to go shorter in the chair.

Cutting at home with clippers

• Start long. Begin with a higher number and work down.

• Cut dry hair against the direction it grows.

• Use two mirrors for the back.

• Blend with the half sizes or the lever where two numbers meet.

Get exactly the number you want at Rooted

Every haircut at Rooted starts with a consultation, so you and your barber agree on the numbers before the clippers come out. Haircuts take 45 to 60 minutes and are priced by barber level:

• Student barber: $17

• Junior barber: $32

• Senior barber: $47 to $57

• J-Roots, master barber: $102

We're at 15 Simcoe St S in Downtown Oshawa, open Monday to Wednesday 12 to 10, Thursday to Saturday 10 to 10 and Sunday 12 to 8. Book your haircut.

Haircut number questions

What do 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 mean in haircuts?

They're clipper guard sizes. A 1 leaves 1/8 inch of hair, a 2 leaves 1/4 inch, a 3 leaves 3/8 inch, a 4 leaves 1/2 inch and a 5 leaves 5/8 inch.

How short is a number 3 haircut?

3/8 inch, about 10 mm (9.5 mm exactly). It covers the scalp on most hair.

How long is a number 4 haircut?

1/2 inch, about 13 mm (12.7 mm exactly).

How long is a 7?

7/8 inch, about 22 mm.

How many mm is a 2 guard?

6.4 mm, usually rounded to 6 mm.

Is a 2 guard a buzz cut?

Yes. A 2 all over is the classic buzz cut length.